A four-page description of a cruise down the Nile, with evocative accounts of sights both modern and ancient, giving a sense of what it is like to see the archaeology in geographical order: "Because the riverboats follow the course of the Nile, the visitor must be prepared to bounce back and forth through the centuries, and indeed the millennia, as if transported by an off-kilter time machine. It is not feasible to tour the sites in chronological sequence, and it is therefore virtually impossible for the uninitiated to keep the gods, kings, and periods straight". Note: You can only read the first three pages before being invited to register to the Boston Globe website. I liked the article, and would have liked to have read the last page, but not enough to register to a site I'll probably never need to visit again.
19:07, 25th Setpember: Kat - thanks for sending me the last page! It was great to read the full thing. You're a star.